Tag Archives: Provence

two people in a lavender field in Provence France

WOW Moment: Vintage Car Tour of Provence’s Hidden Charms

two people in a lavender field in Provence France
Pam and Ken Anderson in their own private lavender field
blue classic Citroën 2CV car in Provence France
The classic Citroën 2CV
The village of Saignon Provence France
The village of Saignon
two people standing by a classic Citroën 2CV car in Provence lavender field
Pam with Philip Haslett

 

Pam and Ken Anderson of Lexington, Kentucky, had been to France a few times already, but they’d never made it to famously charming (and famously tourist-filled) Provence. “The last time, when we were on the Riviera, I’d wanted to go to Provence but felt like I really didn’t know exactly where to go or what to see,” Pam told us over the phone recently. “So that was our motivation: We wanted to see Provence the best way possible. And we are Wendy-allegiant now,” she adds with a laugh. “I’ll always go to Wendy’s List because it’s such a better experience.”  We hoped this particular trip would be an even better experience because the Andersons were due for a WOW Moment.  So Wendy recommended they connect with Philip Haslett, one of the France travel specialists on The WOW List, who is based in Provence.  Here’s what happened.

Q: What was your WOW Moment and how did it unfold?

A: We didn’t know anything—what day or what it was going to be. Then, on the first real day that we were there, Philip called and said, “Today is your WOW Moment, and I’m going to pick you up.”

He met us in the lobby and walked us outside to a classic Citroën 2CV, which just looks like France to me. And he actually spent all day with us, from about 10 in the morning until 5 or 6 in the afternoon. It was like having a friend to take you around and show you all the hidden treasures of Provence.

Also, my husband works for Toyota, so he’s a car guy. I don’t remember if I mentioned that to Philip—maybe I did. So my husband definitely loved it.

Q: Where did Philip take you?

A: He had an itinerary of what he wanted to show us. I told him we like small towns and off-the-beaten-path things and history and culture, so he knew what we liked and tailored it to that.

Our first stop was Ménerbes, where we had lunch at a lovely venue that overlooks the Luberon. It specializes in truffles, so we had everything truffle. It was really nice.

Two of my favorite things during the day: In Saignon, we were the only people there other than the artist sitting around—and this was in the peak tourism month of July!  So that was one of my favorite stops. The other thing that was really fun: Philip is on the board of the lavender preservation association, so he told us a lot about the different types of lavender and issues they’ve been having with pests. And he has a friend who has a lavender farm, so we went off-roading on a dirt road way back into the middle of the lavender fields. There was nobody there. We were in the middle of nowhere, and it was beautiful. We were there totally alone and literally went down a tractor path to get there.

Q: Were there other places where you felt like you got away from the usual crowds?

A: We went to Oppède le Vieux and hiked up to the top, and we were the only people up there in the church, Notre-Dame-Dalidon. Almost the whole day, we seldom ran into many tourists. That’s the special part: Philip knew when to go and how to avoid any kind of groups, and we had the places to ourselves.

Q: What were other highlights from the rest of the trip?

A: Obviously Philip’s agency carries some weight because everyone we encountered treated us like VIPs, everywhere. For example, for our final night, we were in a chateau in Èze, outside of Nice. They set us up on this terrace overlooking the bay of Nice, and we had wine and cheese and dessert out there by ourselves.

Q: You joked that you are “Wendy-allegiant.” Why are you such a fan of The WOW List?

A: We travel a lot. We try to do a major destination—some place we’ve never been before—twice a year, in July and at Christmastime. The reason I will only use WOW List travel specialists is that you’re getting someone who has expertise in that particular area and is in that particular area most or some of the time. We took a trip to Argentina and it was through a travel agent in our town; she had connections there, but things just kept going wrong. They didn’t realize the car rental agency didn’t open until a specific time—things like that, that a local would know. The quality and the knowledge of the WOW specialists, and the personal attention as well, are just above and beyond any other agent you could use.

 

Wendy Wants To Amp Up Your Trip!

On every third qualifying trip, Wendy will add to your itinerary a surprise WOW Moment. A WOW Moment is an exclusive insider experience that helps make a trip extraordinary. Each WOW Moment is totally different. They vary depending on a huge range of factors, including the country you’re headed to, the timing of your trip, logistics, availability, and more. You can read a sampling of the more over-the-top WOW Moments (those most conducive to editorial coverage) here. Learn which trips qualify, and how the process works, here: Wendy Wants To Amp Up Your Trip!

Leafy town square with fountain in a picturesque village in Provence, France

How to Avoid the Crowds in Provence

On a self-drive trip to Provence in June with my husband, our four children, and our two grandchildren, we made the following mistakes:

  • Booked a vacation house, sight unseen, that didn’t have enough beds.
  • Neglected to plan our activities in advance and, when our merry throng gathered, couldn’t agree on what to do.
  • Based ourselves many miles from the places we wanted to visit (once we decided what they were).
  • Drove our rental car into the branch of a tree and damaged the hood.
  • Drove our rental car over a stone curb and damaged the chassis.
  • Didn’t take the rental company’s car insurance.

Obviously, these blunders could have been avoided—but there is more. Our trip occurred before the July/August peak, and yet the worst of our problems involved parking. In Avignon, home of the famous bridge and the Palais des Papes, we arrived at rush hour and drove around and around looking for parking places for our two cars. After an hour or so of this activity and several temper tantrums, a miracle happened and we found two spaces close together at the bottom of a steep hill, which we hiked up, leaving my husband behind in a café (he was tired), only to find that the Palais des Papes had closed for the day.

Ochre hills in Roussillon Provence France CR Pixabay

Some of the ochre hills we did not get to see in Roussillon. Photo: Pixabay

In Roussillon, a small town in the Luberon that is known for its ochre quarries, we scoured the town for parking and, finding none, ended up at a tractor show in a hayfield, miles from town. We did not see the ochre quarries except as a bright orange slash on a distant hillside.

Tractor show Rousillon Provence France

The tractor show that we did see. Photo: Sara Tucker

The one thing we did right was to visit the hilltop towns recommended by Philip Haslett, Wendy’s Trusted Travel Expert for Provence and the French Riviera. Philip later told me (when I finally called him) that we should have planned to see Roussillon at the end of the day or, even better, hired a driver who could drop us at the entrance and then slip the car into one of the secret parking spots he knows about. He also gave me the following tips for making my next trip to Provence go more smoothly, despite the crowds that flock to this popular region.

Don’t snub Marseille.

Marseille Old Port from atop ferris wheel

Wendy took this shot of Marseille’s Old Port from the top of a Ferris wheel.

Wendy’s swing through Marseille last year counted as one of her Best Travel Moments of 2017. “Marseille is vibrant, it’s lively, and the museums are incredible,” says Philip, “but we have to push people to stay there.” The city is rumored to be dangerous, but Philip says that reputation is undeserved. “It’s no more dangerous than New York or any big city.” His guides can ease your way through such major attractions as the fish market at the Old Port, Notre-Dame de la Gare (“stunning and the views are amazing”), and the Panier. Philip recommends two nights in Marseille to allow for a full day of sightseeing. He does not, however, recommend the city as a base for excursions into the countryside, because of its heavy traffic.

Visit the Palais des Papes on a private guided after-hours tour.

 Palais des Papes in Avignon Provence France

Visit Avignon’s Palais des Papes after hours. Photo: Pixabay

(This one would have been perfect for us.) Avignon was once the seat of the Roman Catholic Church, and the Papal Palace is “definitely worth discovering,” Philip says, “but it can get very crowded. If you arrange a visit after hours through me, you’ll have the entire monument to yourself with one of our exceptional guides. It’s eerie, magical, and certainly brings the monument to life.”

Cross the Rhône.

After visiting the Palais des Papes, drive across the river to Villeneuve-lès-Avignon. Among its attractions: the Carthusian community of Notre Dame du Val de Bénédiction; the Tour Philippe-le-Bel; and the Fort Saint André (here, too, Philip can arrange private VIP visits). “You can spend a day in Villeneuve if you are a history fan,” he says, “and there are great restaurants for your lunch break. This side of the Rhône is the new part of Provence to go to. We’re going to be concentrating on the Gigondas wine country, for instance. There’s a beautiful hotel up there, as well as what I consider the most beautiful road in Provence. Uzès, too, is beautiful, and the market is stunning.”

Pack a picnic lunch, put on your hiking shoes, and get off the tourist trail.

Saignon fountain Provence

The town square and fountain in Saignon. Photo: Sara Tucker

The Luberon, east of Avignon, has miles and miles of hiking trails, as well as an extensive network of bike paths. The region is known for its hilltop villages; one of the lesser known is Saignon. “Saignon for me is just magical,” Philip says. “If there was a good restaurant, everyone would be going there.”

Gorge below Banon Provence France

The gorge below Banon. Photo: Sara Tucker

His Luberon picks include the hilltop villages of Oppede le Vieux (home to one of his favorite bistros, Le Petit Café), Bonnieux, Simiane la Rotonde, Banon, Viens, and Oppedette, as well as “the amazing Gorges d’Oppedette.” Instead of hiking down into the gorges, I hiked up steep cobblestone streets and stone stairways to the inevitable church and sometimes the ruins of a chateau. I ate a ham-and-cheese sandwich on a bench that overlooked infinity, with swifts and swallows diving and swooping below me.

Oppede le Vieux Church Provence France

The church in Oppede le Vieux. Photo: Sara Tucker

Le Petit Bouchon restaurant in Oppede le Vieux, Provence France

Le Petit Cafe in Oppede le Vieux, Provence. Photo: Billie Cohen

You would think that, being a travel writer (and one who lives in France), I might have planned our Provence itinerary better. Perhaps I would have, but this trip was planned by my husband. He spent much of his childhood in Provence and has traveled extensively in Europe, Africa, Asia, and the Americas. He is a former tour operator. He thought he knew what he was doing, and so did I. (We are still married, by the way.)

If I had it to do over again, I would do as savvy travelers do and (a) contact Philip before the trip, instead of midway through it, (b) pick a better base and plan activities that would suit a multigen family, (c) get help executing the plan (a child-friendly guide for at least some of the historic sites, for example, to make them come alive), and (d) hire an eight-passenger van with a qualified driver or, at the very least, check “yes” for the car insurance.

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