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5 Cool Experiences You Didn’t Know You Could Have in Switzerland

I Can’t Believe We Did This: Mountain Climbing in Whistler

“In Whistler we’re doing the Via Ferrata,” Wendy announced proudly. Sounds good, I thought. Must be like “doing” Las Ramblas in Barcelona. But with an Italian twist. Never having been to Whistler, I pictured some street lined with cappuccino and gelato shops and small tables for people-watching. “Not exactly,” she said. “Via Ferrata means ‘iron way’ in Italian. You use iron rungs drilled into the rock face to climb a mountain. We’ll be climbing Whistler Mountain.”

Wait. What? Wendy had signed the family up to climb a rock face? The boys would love it, of course—they’d bungee jump from a moving space shuttle if they could. But I had just had total knee replacement surgery six months earlier. And, while I love Wendy, her rock-climbing abilities are minimal. Did we really need to climb Whistler Mountain? A chairlift goes right to the summit. Whose idea was this anyway? “Steve Ogden from Tourism Whistler.”

Please note that if I, and not Steve, had suggested Wendy climb a mountain, my compos mentis would have been called into question and proceedings to institutionalize me started. But Steve from Tourism Whistler had suggested it. And the Via Ferrata is one of the mountain’s best-kept secrets; very few locals have heard of it. So, of course, Wendy was willing to try it. Anything for a story.

The group ahead of us (at lower left) is dwarfed by the mountain. Photo: Timothy Baker

And so, on a perfect mountain afternoon, we met our guide, Josh Majorossy, at the Whistler Alpine Guides headquarters a little above Whistler Mountain’s Roundhouse Lodge complex (elevation 6,069 feet). I saw a group returning from the morning climb and, trying to glean a little intel, asked how it was. “Brilliant,” they delivered in a British accent. Okay. But is there anything I should know about it? “It was just brilliant.” Thanks.

Josh was an extremely patient and laid-back fellow—a professional mountain guide who does the climb twice a day and has led hundreds of groups. He assured me that my knee would be fine. He assured Wendy that mountain-climbing novices of only average fitness can do this. “If you can climb a ladder, you can climb the mountain.”

After waiver signing (a popular Whistler tourist activity), we each got kitted up with a hard hat and a harness with two lanyards and carabiners, and we had a brief safety chat. Safety rule #1: One of your lanyards and carabiners must be attached to the safety cable at all times. Rule #2: Yell “Rocks!” if any are dislodged. Rule #3: When someone above you yells “Rocks!,” don’t look up. Rule #4: Only one person at a time can be attached to a segment of safety cable; that way, if you stumble and fall, you won’t take out the people below you.

Earlier in the season, when snow is present, you traverse the snow to the spot where the rungs start. In early August, though—when we did it—you hike down and back up again to the trail. The hike down was a simple walk, but the hike up was actually what mountain climbers call “scrambling.”

Carrying a broken ski pole he found, Doug scrambles through a crack in the rock. Photo: Timothy Baker

Scrambling is climbing and clambering over rocks freestyle, with no set trail. The boys were in boy heaven. I was worried because we weren’t to the beginning of the safety cable just yet. If they fell, other rocks would break their fall.

Wendy is more at home in the canyons of Manhattan than scrambling up a mountain peak. Photo: Timothy Baker

In the distance, we could see the group ahead of us. So we could see where we were expected to go. Up there? Really?

Charlie stops for a little natural refreshment. Photo: Timothy Baker

At the starting point of the climb came our first gut check. There were several aluminum ladders attached via cables to the mountain and going almost straight up.

Our first gut check. Josh leads the way up the ladder to the start of the trail. Photo: Timothy Baker

Each of us clipped both our lanyards to the first safety cable. We started the climb, leap-frogging one set of lanyards and carabiners over the other every six feet or so past where the cable was anchored.

Doug climbs the first series of rungs. Photo: Timothy Baker

As Dad, I was constantly watching everyone’s lanyards to make sure that the carabiners had properly attached and closed. If one of us were to stumble and fall, we would fall only as far as the next safety-cable anchor.

A natural ledge makes a perfect place for Charlie to use panorama mode. Photo: Timothy Baker

On several occasions we witnessed natural rock slides: Steamer-trunk-sized boulders, probably loosened by the weight and thawing of the snow and ice, broke off the mountain peak and slid down the snow chute well away from our vertical trail.

Back on the climb. Photo: Timothy Baker

The rungs themselves are not actually iron. They’re steel rebar inserted into holes drilled into the rock and epoxied in place. (“Via Rebar” just doesn’t sound exotic enough for marketing.) The experience is sometimes like climbing a ladder, but sometimes the rungs are at uneven intervals, or are offset, or both. In several spots there were no rungs at all, as there were natural handgrips and footholds in the rock. Josh challenged us to try not to use the rungs if we could use the natural rock (while still attached to the safety line, of course). The boys took the challenge whenever they could. Wendy did not.

There were a couple of tricky sections (called “technical” by real mountain climbers) where a bit of reach was needed to grab the rungs. On the toughest section, it was a little like a game of Twister. (Left foot blue. Right hand blue.) In that section Wendy needed encouragement from Josh (and his climbing rope).

Mountain guide Josh gives Wendy a little physical encouragement. Photo: Timothy Baker

If the toes of Doug’s shoes give out, I’m wearing him. Photo: Timothy Baker

From below, we could see the early group on the last section of the climb. Photo: Timothy Baker

Wendy uses a natural foothold where there weren’t any rungs. Photo: Timothy Baker

We probably took a little more time than most groups because I didn’t want to unnecessarily stress my knee or my wife. The final “push” to the top of the trail—at 7,160 feet—was straight up. As we cleared the top of the trail, it was a little weird to see all the people who had ridden the chairlift up.

The summit. The views were our reward. Photo: Timothy Baker

Typically we are them: mere passengers in our adventure travels. This time, though, we had gotten up there the hard way—and it gave us a sense of accomplishment that is rare. We also felt relief that (1) we were coming back with the same number of (un-mangled) kids we’d started with. (2) I didn’t need to be winched off the mountain because of my knee. (3) None of my cameras had smashed into the rocks. This was Alpine Climbing 101 and a great introduction to a sport I will never take up.

In the end, the Via Ferrata turned out to be a wonderful family experience—and probably yielded our 2015 Christmas card photo. Yes, we had sore muscles, but we were able to soothe them that night with umbrella drinks in the Fairmont Chateau Whistler’s hot tubs.

From now on, when we hear of a ski or mountain-bike competition at Whistler, we’ll smile to ourselves and think: We conquered that mountain!

Need to know:

Via Ferrata can be found all over the world.
Bring a wide-angle lens and wear your camera strap so that the camera won’t smash against the rocks.
Bring a light jacket or windbreaker. The weather can get a little chilly at the summit, even when it’s warm down in the valley.
Hiking boots are very useful, but 11-year-old Doug had no problems with a harder soled sport shoe.
Long pants are a good idea. They can handle scrapes better than your skin.
Go at your own pace. Take the afternoon trip so you are not worried about holding up another group. You may want to hire a guide for a private tour.
Bring a bottle of water. If the streams are running, empty out the bottle and refill with that delicious water.
We left our sandals and comfortable shoes at the Alpine Guides hut. Nice to get off our boots and put those on after the climb.
Light gloves are suggested. The safety cable can have a few burrs in it, and you may find yourself grabbing it.
Use the bathroom before you start.
Don’t forget to enjoy the magnificent panoramas.

Whistler isn’t the only ski resort where you can enjoy a multitude of warm-weather adventures; find more ideas in Summer Vacation at a Ski Resort? Yes, and Here’s Why. If you’d like help planning your own trip to Whistler (or Vail, or Park City…) click on the black button below.

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Where to Travel in 2015: 10 Up-and-Coming Destinations

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Figuring out your next great trip is one of the best problems anyone could have: The world is big, and the possibilities seem limitless. To help you decide, we went straight to the sources: the travel experts who live and work in the most interesting places around the world. Whether your goal is to immerse yourself in history, indulge in food and drink, or lie on a beach, these are the up-and-coming hot spots to do it in next year.

1. Porto Heli, Greece

Porto Heli is a small seaside village where many Athenians have their summer houses. Thanks to a combo of serene views (beautiful beaches line stunning blue waters) and a cosmopolitan sensibility (luxe private yachts fill the marina and upscale hot spot Spetses is ten minutes away), the town is gaining a lot of attention. Situated on the eastern part of the Peloponnese peninsula, it can be easily reached either by sea (two hours by hydrofoil from Piraeus harbor) or by land (two and a half hour drive from Athens). Once there, two new luxury properties—the Aman Amanzo’e and the Nikki Beach Resort & Spa—are catering to those without summer homes.

To plan a trip, Ask Wendy.

2. Fez, Morocco

Photo by Deborah Dunn

Fez is the long overlooked sister to Marrakech. It has long been the heart of Moroccan culture, and always a traditional and conservative city, but it’s now becoming hip and chic due to a startling new infusion of energy. On the way for Fez: a new airport (set to open in spring 2015) with flights coming in from major European cities. Already there: The new five-star Sahrai Hotel and Karawan Riad. Food is in the spotlight there as well, thanks to a chef-in-residence program at Restaurant Numero 7, which will feature kitchen stars from around the world throughout 2015.

To plan a trip, Ask Wendy.

Tel Aviv

3. Tel Aviv, Israel

Twenty years ago you could not find one decent boutique or five-star hotel in Tel Aviv, nor could you get a decent meal other than hummus and falafel. That has all changed. The Tel Aviv area now boasts five-star and boutique hotels along the Mediterranean shoreline, celeb-chef restaurants for every taste, world-class museums, and vibrant nightlife (including a lively LBGT scene, especially during Pride). The newest and hippest neighborhood in Tel Aviv is actually one of the oldest: Sarona. Founded in 1870 by German Evangelical Christians and abandoned in 1939, this restored 19th-century neighborhood is now lined with boutique shops, bars and restaurants of the moment. On the hotel front, two new buzzy additions are The Norman, a hotel in a pre-Bauhaus 1920s building, and The Market House in Jaffa’s ancient surroundings.

To plan a trip, get in touch with our Trusted Travel Expert Joe Yudin.

Madrid

4. Madrid, Spain

Foodies should look beyond Catalonia’s El Celler de Can Roca this year and put Madrid on their must-eat list. Five of the city’s restaurants were awarded their first Michelin stars this year, bringing the number of starred eateries to eight. Mohawk-wearing, multi-pierced chef David Muñoz is often thought of as the inspiration behind Madrid’s new edgy flavor, with his eccentric Spanish-meets-Asian eatery DiverXo (and its three Michelin stars), but now he has plenty of company. Two new food markets are catering to hungry crowds: Platea, a collection of tapas restaurants in an old cinema space, and the three-floor Mercado de San Ildefonso, filled with food stands. Even the new five-star Hotel Urso is getting in on the act: Its pop-up restaurant, The Table, invites up-and-coming chefs from around the world to show off their kitchen skills for a few weeks at a time.

To plan a trip, get in touch with our Trusted Travel Expert Virginia Irurita.

Sanctuary Ananda river boat

5. River cruises in Southeast Asia

A few years ago Myanmar emerged from five decades of political oppression to welcome tourism—and this has boosted interest in exploring the rivers of Southeast Asia. On the banks of Myanmar’s Ayeyarwady River, the Bagan Archeological Zone features an impressive concentration of more than 2,000 pagodas and temples. Along the Mekong River in Vietnam and Cambodia, travelers can experience traditional villages and bustling cities, as well as Angkor Wat. With the boom in luxury cruise itineraries and the introduction of intimate modern riverboats—such as the Orcaella (sailing Myanmar’s Ayeyarwady River), the Sanctuary Ananda (custom-built for the Ayeyarwady using traditional materials), the Aqua Mekong (five-star luxury and one-Michelin-starred food along the Mekong River), and the Jahan (exploring Vietnam and Cambodia in the company of National Geographic experts)—travelers no longer have to be on the backpacker circuit to explore these lesser-known corners of Southeast Asia.

To plan a trip, get in touch with our Trusted Travel Expert Ashton Palmer.

6. Alacati, Turkey

Alacati is a quaint, small town on Turkey’s Aegean Coast, and it’s still more popular with locals than with tourists. Wander among the narrow streets and stone houses, shop the markets and boutiques, hit the cafés and restaurants…and if you want beaches, Alacati has that covered too: The shoreline here is some of the most beautiful in Turkey. The new Alavya hotel—a collection of six unique houses situated around a small modern pool and a swatch of lawn—completes the destination.

To plan a trip, get in touch with our Trusted Travel Expert Karen Fedorko Sefer.

Registan Square

7. Samarkand, Uzbekistan

Located along the Silk Road in northeastern Uzbekistan, Samarkand has a history that goes back more than 2,000 years. UNESCO has recognized it as a crossroads of culture, the site of the 7th-century BC city of Afrosiab, an 8th-century mosque, a medieval city from the 14th century, and more. Registan mosque and its surrounding square are the city’s most iconic monuments, but certainly not the only draw. Though there are many archaeological treasures here, a bustling modern city surrounds the historical center. There’s now a high-speed train and frequent flights from Tashkent, plus many new restaurants and hotels.

To plan a trip, get in touch with our Trusted Travel Expert Zulya Rajabova.

Kayaking in Tortuguero National Park. Photo by Sergio Pucci/Courtesy Costa Rica Expeditions.

8. Tortuguero National Park region, Costa Rica

Multigenerational family travel is not a new trend, but the types of destinations that families are traveling to continue to shift and surprise us (even wine country can be kid-friendly). Tortuguero National Park in Costa Rica is one of those places, and despite its remote location (you must travel to the region by boat or light aircraft), the number of travelers heading there has skyrocketed lately. One possible explanation: This particular spot provides an unusual combo of seclusion…and Internet access! Kids may be happy kayaking down the creek, but they’ll be even happier when they tell their friends about it.

To plan a trip, get in touch with Priscilla Jiminez, one of Wendy’s Trusted Travel Experts for Costa Rica.

National Museum of Australia. Photo courtesy Tourism Australia

9. Canberra, Australia

Canberra is often overlooked as a city of politicians and school excursions, but it is fast emerging as a colorful tourism destination. In October it was named the best city in the world to live in—in a report by the Organization for Economic Cooperation and Development—and a variety of hip and quirky openings have made Australia’s capital city seem cool again. Ovolo Nishi is a design-centric collaboration between artists, creative firms, and makers. Both the QT Canberra and the Peppers Gallery were updated and renovated into boutique-style properties this year. On the food front, Peppers has a locally acclaimed restaurant (along with about nine other city spots recently identified as buzzworthy by The Sydney Morning Herald Good Food Guide), and there are 33 wineries within a 35-minute drive of the city. Neighborhoods are being revitalized left and right, from the arty New Acton district to the hipster haven of Lonsdale Street, lined with bars and restaurants. And several new attractions have arrived recently: the National Arboretum, the National Gallery of Australia, and the Centenary Trail, which winds through Canberra’s urban and rural landscapes.

To plan a trip, get in touch with our Trusted Travel Expert Stuart Rigg.

10. Hwange National Park, Zimbabwe

Until recently, Zimbabwe was perceived as unsafe: Political and economic troubles made tourists think twice. But Zim is back. It’s safe for travelers (not to mention less expensive than neighboring countries), and the place to visit is Hwange National Park, one of the most renowned wildlife areas in Africa. Home to the country’s largest population of elephants and more than 100 species of mammals, it’s also the site of a fabulous new camp scheduled to open in May 2015. Linkwasha Camp—comprised of just seven luxury tents overlooking an active waterhole— will be situated close to the Ngamo Plains, an area known for fantastic game viewing, which you can experience up close, day or night, with private guides.

To plan a trip, get in touch with our Trusted Travel Expert Cherri Briggs.

Where are you headed in 2015?

Madrid Airport Layovers: How to Make the Most of Them

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Sometimes you just can’t avoid an airport layover. When you find yourself facing a long one, use it as an opportunity to add a great day trip to your vacation plans. It’s easier than you think to escape the airport for a few hours and get a taste of the cultural capital in which you’ve landed. In this series, we talk to experts in some of the world’s most popular airport hubs to get their suggestions for how to make the most of your time on the ground. For Madrid, we asked the city mavens at Context Travel to whip up a few itineraries for those passing through.

The Basics

How to get out of the airport: Madrid city center is just 12 kilometers from the airport, so you won’t waste too much time in transit when you could be exploring the city or savoring a delicious Madrileno meal. These are your options for getting out and getting back.

Taxi: A taxi to the city center is your most expensive but arguably the most convenient option. It will cost you 30 euros (about $38), which is a flat rate adopted by all official taxi companies. Count on 20 to 25 minutes of travel time, and more during rush hour.

Metro: You can access the city metro from terminals T2 and T4. It runs about every five minutes, from 6 a.m. to 2 a.m. It’ll take you about 12 minutes to get to the city center (more if you have to switch to a different line). Single-journey tickets are between 4.5 euros and 5 euros (about $6), depending on your final destination, and they can be purchased in the metro station (www.metromadrid.es/en).

Bus: Airport bus 200 runs from 6:36 a.m. to 11:45 p.m. Tickets can be purchased on the bus, cash only, for 5 euros each way. Expect 40 minutes travel time, making this the slowest method of transport.

What to do with your luggage: Lockers are available to rent, in 24-hour intervals, in terminals 1, 2 and 4. Cost varies by locker size (small 4.22 euros, medium 4.82 euros, large 5.42 euros), and additional lockers are available for suitcases, bicycles, guitars, and other large objects.

If You Have a 7-Hour Layover

Taking into account airport security, baggage claim, travel time from and to the airport, and arriving back at the airport two hours before your next international flight, this option gives you approximately four hours in the city.

First-time visitors to Madrid should plan a stroll through the city center and historical district. Start at Puerta del Sol, the heart of the city, with arteries leading to the various barrios. Admire the square’s large city hall building, then make your way toward the Opera House and the Royal Palace, which you can gaze at over coffee on one of the peaceful terraces just behind the Opera House. Zigzag through the narrow streets to the Plaza Mayor, a regal 17th-century square lined with shops and cafés. If you still have energy, keep walking into the Huertas district and you’ll come to Plaza Santa Ana, where you can enjoy a beer and some basic tapas at one of Hemingway’s favorite haunts, La Cerveceria Alemana (Plaza Santa Ana 6; +34-91-429-7033, www.cerveceriaalemana.com/). If you prefer a guided walk instead, Context Travel offers an introductory historical walking tour in this area, Madrid Through the Centuries, led by a local scholar. Got kids in tow? Context has a special version of this tour just for families.

If You Have a 9-Hour Layover

Madrid is home to some of the best museums in the world. Spend your on-the-ground time surrounded by the creative genius of Velazquez, Titian, and Goya at the Museo del Prado (Calle Ruiz de Alarcón 23; +34-91-330-2800; www.museodelprado.es/en), or pay homage to Spanish history at Picasso’s monumental tableau Guernica at the Reina Sofia (Calle Santa Isabel, 52; +34-91-774-1000; www.museoreinasofia.es/en), which houses countless other modern masterpieces as well. Afterward meander through nearby 350-acre Buen Retiro Park. Finish your foray with a little window shopping in either the elegant Salamanca district or up-and-coming trendy Chueca before saying adios to Madrid and heading back to the airport.

How about a massage? High-end Spanish spa chain Elysium Travel Spa has an outpost in terminal 4 (+34-91-746-6280). The airport also has VIP Air Lounges, where you can shower (towel, slippers, and shower gel included), eat, watch TV, use Wi-Fi, and flip through newspapers and magazines (prices start at 25 euros). If you didn’t get any sleep on the plane, check out Air Rooms, which can be rented overnight or for three- or six-hour periods during the day (Terminal 4; +34-93-375-8600; www.premium-traveller.com/en).

More Layover Solutions:

Amsterdam Airport Layovers: How to Make the Most of Them

Beijing Airport Layovers: How to Make the Most of Them

Barcelona Airport Layovers: How to Make the Most of Them

Great Paris Hotels for an Airport Layover at Charles de Gaulle

London Heathrow Layover: Great Hotels for a Stopover at LHR

Tokyo Airport Layovers: The Best Way to Spend Them

Be a smarter traveler: Use Wendy’s WOW List to plan your next trip. You can also follow her on Facebook and Twitter @wendyperrin, and sign up for her weekly newsletter to stay in the know.

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