Make Your Next Trip Extraordinary

Jerry and Carol Huller in Alta, Norway, in front of Aurora Borealis.

Travelers Jerry and Carol Huller in Alta, Norway, in front of the much-anticipated Aurora Borealis.

A bucket list trip of mine has been to travel to see the Aurora Borealis (Northern Lights). I visited Iceland a year ago, but only saw the Aurora for a few minutes on 2 nights of a 4-night trip; they were not very prominent. I learned that seeing the Aurora is somewhat a matter of luck. You need dark skies, mostly clear skies, and solar activity causing favorable Aurora viewing conditions as measured by the Kp Index (measure of global geomagnetic disturbance), HPI or Hemispheric Power Index (total energy of the Aurora), and Bz (solar magnetic direction).

In Wendy Perrin’s newsletter, I have read about successful trips to Tromsø and Alta, Norway, to see the Aurora. So I decided to travel about 400 kilometers north of the Arctic Circle to Alta, which is less commercialized and less crowded than Tromsø. I chose to visit in the winter around a new moon for darker skies. I knew it would be cold in northern Norway, so I said to myself, “I’d like to see the Aurora from a hot tub!” I knew I would need mostly clear skies which is not always guaranteed, so I decided on a 5-night visit to enhance my chances of success. I knew I would need someone with specialized knowledge about the area, so I contacted Wendy’s WOW List planner, Torunn, to arrange my trip.

Thanks possibly to an intervention by Torunn with the Norse gods, I was lucky to see the Aurora on 2 of the 5 nights, including from hot tubs at two different locations in the Alta area—the Björnfjell Mountain Lodge and the Onga Boutique Hotel. So all my expectations were met! We were even surprised with some gifts of champagne and chocolate at our lodges and hotels by Torunn’s team.

Torunn and her staff (including Danny and Thea) listened carefully to what my wife and I were interested in doing, tailored the trip accordingly, and then made adjustments based upon our feedback. They even suggested staying at a second location in Alta, the newly opened Onga Boutique Hotel, which was a definite winner to me. They arranged for all ground transportation, meals, hot tub visits at Björnfjell and a cabin at Onga with a private outdoor hot tub (and sauna). We decided not to do dog mushing, but enjoyed a snowshoe hike with a local insider, lunch in a lavvu, a bonfire dinner (but no stargazing because of the cloudy skies), a tour of the Sorrisniva Igloo Hotel with a drink at the Ice Bar, a reindeer sled ride, and stories by a Sami (indigenous person) around a fire. We had to skip a frozen river walk due to a pulled muscle I suffered. Torunn also arranged for an Aurora Dome for us at the Onga—it’s basically a geodesic glass igloo with a wood pellet stove for warmth for observing the Aurora; you could sleep there if you wanted. To me, there was too much light reflection from the stove for stargazing or observing the Aurora. At the Onga, the staff did have daily Aurora walks, weather permitting; one night was cancelled due to cloudy weather; the other night we saw the Aurora prominently in the night sky.
The meals at the hotels, including one meal at the Maku restaurant at the Sorrisniva Artic Wilderness Lodge, were excellent. At the different hotels, we savored reindeer stew, reindeer steak, moose steak, halibut, and cod. We had a choice of dinner meals at the Björnfjell and a gourmet chef at the Onga.

Torunn and her staff also arranged for us a nice hotel, the Amerikalinjen, in Oslo, Norway, on our stopover flights back to the US.

I would definitely recommend Torunn and Up Norway to others. She and her staff did an excellent job with planning the trip to meet our desires.

Aurora tips: bring a tripod if you’re interested in getting time-lapse videos of the Northern Lights. Wear a glove liner that will work with your camera or smartphone; it’s cold in the winter. Locals told me the best Aurora viewing is when the temperature is -10 to -20 degrees Celsius or colder; there tend to be few clouds in such conditions. The best viewing we experienced of the Northern Lights was at the Sorrisniva (we saw the Lights from horizon to horizon) and at the Onga (in a valley, but great views). My wife and I got good photos with the Night Mode on our smartphones (iPhones), which are 2 and 3 versions old. I got some good time-lapse videos using the tripod and the NightCap app for my iPhone. Find and use a good Aurora app or Internet website, or check with your hotel or lodge staff; I used https://northernlightsmap.com and https://Aurorasaurus.org.

Experiencing the Arctic winter was exhilarating! The Northern Lights, which were our initial main interest, became a beautiful portion of our trip and other incredible adventures. Dogsledding, whale and king crab safari, and snowmobile riding were a few of the activities that will stay with us forever. Highlight was definitely Varanger Bay and the night in the wilderness cabin, and the visit to the reindeer sanctuary. Our hosts were amazing both in Alta and in Varanger Bay, we felt so well taken care of and special. The other thing that is incredible about life in this ecosystem of extreme temperatures is how the people thrive and how they are fully connected to their territory and to everything produced locally. A real example of a lifestyle we should all learn from. None of this would have been possible without Torunn’s team and their suggestions of our trip planning. Everything went smoothly and selection of service providers excellent. We have built memories that will last a lifetime!

One tip for someone only interested in northern lights: Check the moon cycle and avoid full moons!

This trip showed me why it’s important to use a travel expert for the area you are traveling, and not a general tour operator. Long story short, our specialist arranged for a van to drive directly from our accommodation to the next. It was an easy 3-hour drive EAST. The tour company another couple used, had them driven 3 hours WEST, dropped off at airport, then flown EAST to the same location that we were heading to. What a waste of time.

Our travel planning company arranged a fine itinerary listening to my wants. Our accommodations were great. Katja was on top of things when a couple of our activities had to be canceled due to weather.

Baby reindeer in arctic Norway.

Visiting a Sami family included a covered snowmobile ride and feeding baby reindeer. Photo: Traveler Laura Probst

Torunn billed this as our Scandinavian Christmas Fairytale Adventure. And it truly was!

We wanted to do something out of the ordinary, unique, and unlike anything we’d planned before. From the start,
Torunn helped us choose Christmas time for what we were looking for—Northern Lights, unique animal encounters, authentic local interactions.

We visited Oslo, then went up to Finnmark and trekked along the areas of Alta, Karasjok and Nesseby Bay above the Arctic Circle, drove a bit through the Laplands and ended with a few days in Helsinki. This gave us everything we hoped for and more!

Arriving the day after Christmas, we were still in time to visit Oslo’s festive Christmas market and enjoy some of the city’s holiday decor and seasonal foods. Then getting to Alta, we stayed in beautifully small lodges with exceptional hospitality and got to see the Northern Lights almost every night. We also got to really understand Sami culture, as Torunn arranged really special experiences like New Years Eve with a Sami family…who after cooking us reindeer stew for dinner, packed us up on their covered snowmobile to go for an adventure in the woods to make a hot chocolate pit of snow and feed baby reindeer (after taking us to the best view to see the Northern Lights show for the night). We loved the hospitality at the Bjornfjell Mountain Lodge, where the staff took our kids sledding as late as they wanted every night (pulling them on a sleigh from their snowmobile about a mile up the hill). There are only a handful of cabins there and tons of activities like snow shoeing, ice sculpting, and reindeer rides.

Torunn knew we didn’t want to spend our whole trip on planes or on long car rides getting from point to point, and so broke up our moves with special activities like dog sledding at Trasti & Trine (in between Alta and Karasjok). Hannah and her team there are AMAZING with the pups and gave us such fantastic education about dog mushing, helped get perfectly geared up for maximum comfort, then letting us prep the sleds and take care of the dogs before letting us each drive our own sleds, highly recommend this!

We then moved to the Engholm Husky Lodge where the owner Sven has hand-crafted all 8 lodges along with every furnishing and decoration in each. We could not stop taking photos of every unique fixture and item there—all so cool and smart. And living with the dogs and going out with the local Samis there was incredible.

Torunn encouraged us to go to Nesseby Bay on the Varangerfjord for our last stop in Finnmark and I’m so glad she did. There are only two cabins and a sauna there, and we had the place to ourselves with our host Edgar. The cabins are pods with glass sides that look out at the bay—Edgar makes everything himself, and we spent our days crab fishing, relaxing in our sauna, visiting the local reindeer sanctuary and using Edgar’s skate-sleds to move around the quiet roads along the bay. We could sit and look at the moon and Saturn and every constellation starting by 1pm every day, and just felt like we were on another planet. It was incredible!

Torunn did a really great job listening to what we liked and recommending accommodations and curating activities that were perfectly aligned to our interests. Multiple times throughout the trip we found ourselves exclaiming how much we loved what we had just experienced. She also made sure we packed everything we needed to be comfortable on an Arctic trip.

We have done many trips with Wendy’s planners and this was definitely one of the best. So unique and special—we will be talking about it for years to come.

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