Scotland: Insider’s Guide

The insider advice on this page is from one of Wendy’s Trusted Travel Experts for Scotland: Jonathan Epstein of Celebrated Experiences.

Trusted Travel Expert

Jonathan Epstein

Jonathan’s deep knowledge and relationships allow him to design trips that include picture-perfect Cotswold cottages, the latest Michelin-starred Scottish restaurants, and the most extraordinary Irish castles—and he and trusted deputy Katie Stewart always include the most scenic drives between all those fairytale properties and otherwise-hard-to-book restaurants. You’ll also benefit from the duo’s close relationships with colorful hoteliers and star chefs, not to mention their friends all over the U.K. and Ireland, from whiskey distillers to crystal cutters to cashmere-sweater weavers. Of course, they can also snag tickets to special events (including Wimbledon and Premier League Soccer).

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Expect trips orchestrated by Jonathan to start at $1,800 per day for two travelers, plus a $700 planning fee.

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The ruins of St Andrews Cathedral’s are nearly 1,000 years old. Photo: Jonathan Epstein

Where to Stay and Eat

Best-value splurge hotel
Gleneagles celebrated its 100^th year as one of the world’s most loved resorts in 2024. While it is one of Scotland’s more expensive hotels, it’s priced much lower than other properties of its caliber around the world (and a particularly good value in the shoulder-season months of March, April, October, and November). And it has a strong sense of place—when you are lounging by the fire at Gleneagles, there is no place you could be but in the glorious Scottish countryside. The service is warm and never stuffy, and there is much for guests to explore on the estate—falconry, off-road driving, horseback riding, target shooting, whisky tutorials, world-class golf, fishing—and in the surrounding region. The spa offers Scottish-influenced treatments, and a swimming pool for the kids.

Restaurants the locals love
The Scran and Scallie is an Edinburgh gastropub helmed by Tom Kitchin (who earned a Michelin star for his restaurant The Kitchin). The food here—including favorites such as steak pie and fish-and-chips—is locally sourced, authentic, and delicious. The crowd is mostly local with a sprinkling of in-the-know travelers. The pub has fun energy—elevated, but with zero pretension.

Timberyard, located in a renovated warehouse in Edinburgh, has a Michelin star and a hip, cool vibe. The cuisine, prepared from local ingredients, melds innovative flavor combinations with unexpected presentations.

The Lookout, also in Edinburgh, offers the best view in the city. Located in a “glass box” atop Calton Hill, The Lookout is intimate, with an open kitchen and a chef’s-choice tasting menu. The best time to dine is around sunset. As with The Scran and Scallie and Timberyard, be sure to book ahead!

A former bank hall turned unfussy Scottish bistro, The Palmerston offers great value just off Princes Street, in the heart of Edinburgh. Come for all-day dining from a market-driven menu, or pick up picnic fixings from the onsite bakery.

The Mustard Seed in Inverness—the “Capital of the Highlands”—is a locally driven establishment that has offered simple, well-prepared food and exceptionally friendly service for over two decades.

Whether you are returning from a day trip to the Isle of Mull or an afternoon touring in Oban, make sure to stop in Oban at Ee-Usk. One of the best seafood restaurants in Scotland and located right on the water, Ee-Usk is tremendously popular with both travelers and locals.

Meal worth the splurge
The Torridon, a family-owned and operated five-star country house in the remote Scottish Highlands, is home to the 1887 Restaurant. Classically Scottish, the 1887 kitchen marries brilliant technique and the freshest local ingredients. The Torridon also boasts one of the world’s finest and most diverse whisky bars (more than 365 whiskies to choose from—plus more than 80 gins). Come for dinner and drinks in this distinctly Highlands setting of mountains and sea (and the occasional Highland cow).

Dishes to try
Haggis, of course! The national dish of Scotland, it’s traditionally served with “neeps and tatties” (turnips and potatoes). You may not want to look up exactly what haggis is, but most everyone who visits Scotland should taste it. It’s often offered as a starter, so you can hedge your bets with a main course such as Dover sole, Angus beef, or venison.

Afternoon tea. It’s a tradition and a total treat. Gleneagles Townhouse offers one of Edinburgh’s buzziest afternoon teas at their restaurant, The Spence. Enjoy tea or (who’s telling?) champagne in the elegant Georgian dining room. If you’re staying at 100 Princes Street, an intimate boutique hotel, you can enjoy afternoon tea with a picture-postcard view of the iconic Edinburgh castle. Less than an hour outside the city, Cromlix is a country house in Stirlingshire owned by Andy Murray (of Wimbledon fame) and his wife, Kim. Overnight guests are treated to yet another Scottish must-have: shortbread, which is baked using Andy’s grandmother’s famous recipe!

Prime picnic spot
The top of Arthur’s Seat in Edinburgh. You shouldn’t just gaze up at this dormant volcano in the middle of the city; walk up the mount to take in the fresh air and views at the top. Alternatively, you can drive to the top, where there’s plenty of parking.

What to See and Do

Don’t miss
St. Andrews. Too many people think St. Andrews is just about golf. It is also the charming and romantic seaside town on the North Sea where the Prince and Princess of Wales met while studying at its picturesque university (back when they were Will and Kate). There is so much to St. Andrews—which you can discover while strolling the ruins of St. Andrews Castle and St. Andrews Cathedral, its coastal hiking paths, and its many small shops. A jog on the beach is also in order; you might recognize it from the iconic scene in Chariots of Fire!

There is no shortage of scenic hikes in the majestic Glencoe Valley. Photo: Visit Britain/Rod Edwards

Glencoe. Anyone passionate about scenic drives or hikes must visit the majestic Glencoe Valley. No matter what time of year you visit, it always looks magnificent. The light hits this valley from so many different angles, and the colors are always changing. Even in pouring rain, Glencoe puts you in a trance as waterfalls cascade onto the valley floor. There is also sad history here, and Jonathan’s hand-picked private guides do a great job of telling the tragic tale that led to the intense animosity between two Scottish clans, the Campbells and the MacDonalds.

Don’t bother
Visiting the Loch Ness Centre and Exhibition. Yes, Loch Ness is beautiful. Even if you forget about the legends, it’s still worth a visit for a boat ride around the loch and a tour of the haunting ruins of Urquhart Castle. But the Loch Ness Centre is skippable unless you’re utterly obsessed with the Loch Ness monster legend.

Most underrated activities
Fine dining in Edinburgh. You may not go to Scotland for the food, but after a few dinners in the capital, you will return to Scotland for the creative dining experiences. There are an astounding number of great restaurants in this city of just 500,000 people, such as The Kitchin, Restaurant Martin Wishart, Heron, and Timberyard. Even if you’re not into fine dining, the pubs and casual restaurants here serve the best Scottish lamb and Angus beef, along with boatloads of seafood.

Set aside some time to explore Edinburgh’s Old Town. Photo: Jonathan Epstein

Edinburgh is one of those cities that is best explored by strolling its cobblestoned streets and weaving through medieval closes and passages, some of which open onto unexpected vantage points to reveal unique perspectives over the city (and the occasional really cool pub). There is a magic in getting lost in the Old Town.

Cheap thrills
Museums in Glasgow and Edinburgh. They’re fantastic—and free! The ones that consistently earn raves are Glasgow’s Kelvingrove Art Gallery, Hunterian Art Gallery, and the Gallery of Modern Art; and Edinburgh’s National Museum of Scotland and National Galleries of Scotland. In Dundee, just north of St. Andrews, don’t miss the (also free) Victoria & Albert Museum.

There are thousands of trails all over the country, perfect for coastal walks, riverside rambles, mountain valley traverses, and, even climbing Ben Nevis, the highest mountain in the United Kingdom. Hiking in Scotland is unexpectedly spectacular.

Learn from one of Scotland’s master distillers. Photo: Visit Britain/Andrew Pickett

Bragging rights
Jonathan can arrange for you to spend the day with one of Scotland’s master distillers learning to blend your own single malt from various aged barrels at one of Scotland’s most iconic distilleries. He can also book private tastings his favorite whisky bars.

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