Make Your Next Trip Extraordinary
Ultimate Norway: Insider’s Guide
Lovatnet Lake, Norway. Photo: Shutterstock
The insider advice on this page is from one of Wendy’s Trusted Travel Experts for Scandinavia and Iceland: Jan Sortland of Norwegian Adventures.
From his home base in Oslo, Jan specializes in custom-tailored adventures into the lesser-known regions of Norway and beyond. His imaginative itineraries often involve seeing the northern lights or sampling the best Nordic cuisine, but he can also arrange activities you may not have known were possible, from harvesting eiderdown with local ladies to spending a day with reindeer herders. In Iceland he can introduce you to experts in Icelandic Saga literature; in Sweden he can get travelers onboard the famous 17th-century ship the Vasa—an honor usually reserved for royalty and heads of state. His vast network can grant you visits with Scandinavian painters, actors, scientists, explorers, and politicians. His expert team and partners go to great lengths to ensure you get meaningful experiences, an itinerary with no details left to chance, and white-gloved service all the way.
Northern Lights, Grøtfjord, Kvaløya, Norway. Photo: Gaute Bruvik – visitnorway.com
Where to Stay and Eat
Best bang-for-your-buck hotels
In Oslo: The Hotel Continental is the best value in town. It has old-world elegance and relatively low room rates—especially for a luxury hotel in northern Europe. The suites are a particularly good deal.
At the fjords: In the charming village of Hafslo, tucked away on a hillside, sits the beautiful BesteBakken hotel. BesteBakken is at the edge of a valley, surrounded by dizzying mountain heights and with a view overlooking the crystalline waters of Lake Hafslo. From homemade soaps and shampoos to the fruits and vegetables in your three- to six-course dinners, owner Lindis takes special care crafting and growing the produce and products you’ll consume here. Hotel rooms tend to be small in Norway, but the BesteBakken’s are larger than average, and the VIP Double rooms are a particularly good value.
The view from Solstrand Hotel, Norway. Photo: Rapha/FjordNorway.com
Best hotel with a view
Many hotels in the fjords have wonderful views, but none are more spectacular than those from the fjord-view rooms at Solstrand Hotel. Considered one of Norway’s best hotels, Solstrand is beautifully located on the shores of the wide Bjørnefjord. Here you won’t find dramatic mile-high cliff faces, but you will find peace and serenity, as well as a wonderful wellness area with indoor and outdoor pools, saunas, and a gym.
Restaurants the locals love
The food scene in Norway is becoming more interesting year by year, with bold Michelin-star chefs opening new concepts and food markets popping up left and right. Still, the locals in Oslo gravitate toward good bread and delicious baked goods, as most Norwegians do. Babbo Collective, at Parkveien in Vika, serves freshly made sourdough bread and sweet treats for breakfast; for dinner they switch to hand-rolled pasta and tasty pizzas. You will find friends and colleagues hanging out at Cave Mia Wine Bar and Bistro in a posh neighborhood behind the Akershus Castle, or enjoying Oslo’s best pizza at the informal Skovveien Bar & Pizza in Frogner.
Dish to try
Norway is known for its fantastic fresh seafood. Whether you are eating it as Japanese cuisine in Oslo or traditionally prepared in the fjord region, you are guaranteed to feel spoiled. For the freshest possible bites, Jan can arrange for you to accompany a fisherman to check his king crab traps. Upon returning to shore, your host will prepare your catch as locals do: cooked in seawater and served with fresh bread, mayonnaise, and a good white wine.
Meal worth the splurge
Restaurant Maaemo, in Oslo, has three Michelin stars; this is Norwegian gastronomy at its best. Maaemo is an old Norse word for Mother Earth, and the name is apt, as the restaurant focuses on local, seasonal ingredients. They offer only a set tasting menu with dishes like tender squid with caviar in a smoked reindeer broth, or mackerel in gooseberries with black-currant wood, mushrooms, and juniper. Every little detail is perfect, and each taste is surprising and delightful.
What to See and Do
The Reinefjord in Lofoten. Photo: Andrea Giubelli – Visitnorway.com
Don’t miss
The fjords. Western Norway is the heart of the fjord district. The fjords are not a network, but rather a series of parallel “canals” going deep into the landmass of Norway. The best parts of the fjords are often the innermost parts, so they are ideally seen not by cruise ship, but by car. By ship you are continually sailing in and out from ocean to land, repeating this process over several days, which becomes quite boring. Jan can arrange a tailor-made experience that puts you right at the heart of all of the best locations of the best fjord (not all fjords are equal, or even worth seeing).
Don’t bother
The train ride from Oslo to Bergen is certainly very scenic, but at over seven hours and with no first-class or dining cars, there are far better ways to enjoy the beautiful scenery.
Photo: Naturfoto Norge
Cheap thrill
Hiking in the mountain wilderness. Norway has something called allemannsretten, which means “freedom to roam”: Everyone has the right to go everywhere, as long as it isn’t fenced private land. So all of Norway’s amazing nature is to be enjoyed, free of charge. If you become a member of the Norwegian Trekking Association, you get to stay overnight for free in their small huts all over the country. The huts are basic, but in most cases very charming.
Bragging rights
The northern lights are visible only under certain conditions: (1) clear skies, (2) total darkness, and (3) being within the auroral oval. Many companies sell northern lights trips all over Scandinavia, but the truth is that Sweden, Finland, and most places in Norway are not actually located under the auroral oval—and many of the locations in Norway and Iceland that are in the auroral oval often have very cloudy weather. Since 2003, Jan has sent his lights-seeking travelers to a small, charming village at the edge of three different climate zones, affording it uniquely ideal weather conditions; 100% of his travelers who go there have seen the northern lights.
The Munch Museum Oslo opened in 2020.
How to spend a Sunday
Most shops are closed on Sundays throughout Scandinavia. Norwegians typically spend the day hiking, but in Oslo, many locals will enjoy a lazy day at the harborside Aker Brygge, with a pint of beer and some open-faced sandwiches, chatting with their friends and taking in the view of the Oslo Fjord.
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Best Times to Go
The end of May through September is the most pleasant time to visit Norway, especially if you’re hoping to see the fjords. Late May is normally nice and sunny, you’ll see lots of flowers and waterfalls, and there are fewer tourists than in summer. June through August is the busiest season in Scandinavia, but for good reason—mid-June to mid-August usually has the best weather. The days are endless, nature is at its peak, and you still have some snow-capped mountains in the fjord area.
December through March are the best months to experience all of Norway’s great winter activities—skiing, of course, but also dogsledding, snowmobiling, reindeer sledding, snowshoeing, and so on. Christmas is charming throughout this winter wonderland, and the climate is surprisingly mild, averaging around 30 degrees.
Statistically, March is the best month to see the northern lights.
Worst Times to Go
April and November are transition times, neither summer nor winter. November is especially bleak: foggy, gray, dark, and not much snow. But sometimes the last bit of April can be warm with greenery and flowers, especially in southern Norway.
Biggest Rookie Mistakes
Thinking you can travel to Norway and book everything once you get there. Norway—and many other places in Scandinavia—has limited infrastructure for tourism. Hotels, activities, private guides, cars, cruises, restaurants, and the like all book up early. You need to plan ahead to make sure you get the most out of your trip.
Must-Have Apps
If you’re flying on Scandinavian Airlines or Norwegian Air, download their apps so you can keep your boarding passes on your phone and receive real-time flight alerts.
YR is an outstanding weather-forecast app for Norway and all of Scandinavia. Because weather is normally unstable and changeable, it is good to be prepared for anything.
Airport Intel
In Oslo (and Stockholm), Jan can arrange for VIP airport service: His representative will meet you at the aircraft door and drive you in a private limo to a special lounge. Here you will relax, drink in hand, while the staff takes care of your immigration and customs requirements, then brings your bags to your private chauffeur, who will drive you to your hotel.
Don’t Forget to Pack
Norwegians have a saying: “There is no such thing as bad weather, only bad clothing.” Be prepared for chilly summers, so bring a warm sweater.
The fjord region tends to be rainy and windy year-round, so a waterproof jacket is essential.
Pack sturdy walking shoes for the cities and short hikes, but real hiking boots if you want to truly enjoy the country’s outdoor life.
Instagram Moment
The Lofoten Islands, in northern Norway, are a photographer’s dream and many of the famous summits find their way onto social media. But what fun is it to have the same photo as everyone else? Jan can connect you with expert guides who will take you off the beaten path and show you Lofoten’s lesser-known but equally stunning views, which will make for great Instagram moments.
The Souvenir
Knitting is huge in Norway. Buying a hand-knit wool sweater in one of the traditional patterns is a sure-fire way to fit in. These sweaters are easily found in most cities; look for a design specified by the Norwegian Folk Art and Craft Association.
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