The insider advice on this page is from one of Wendy’s Trusted Travel Experts for Alaska: Judith Root of Entree Alaska.
Judith has mastered dip-net salmon fishing, camping solo in bear country, and skiing at 40 below. She can orchestrate complicated itineraries to remote lodges, select the perfect backcountry retreat for a family reunion, set up a rendezvous with an Iditarod champion, or fly you to a glacier for summer sledding. Her outdoor guides specialize in everything from fly fishing to river rafting to kayaking with whales. Note: She does not book Alaska cruises. For a small-ship expedition cruise, which is the best way to see the coastline and wildlife, contact Ashton Palmer. For something more affordable—which means a large ship—contact Tom Baker.
Where to Stay and Eat
Best bang-for-your-buck hotels
Glacier Bay’s Bear Track Inn is a family-run, log-construction lodge surrounded by old-growth forest. The inn offers wildlife viewing, whale watching, glacier tours, and guided kayaking with otters, seals, porpoises, sea lions, and humpback whales. Sprinkle in the warm hospitality and delicious meals, and it’s clear why Bear Track is the best choice in Glacier Bay.
Tucked in a forest at the edge of a bay in Alaska’s Inside Passage, the Lodge at Whale Pass offers everything an active traveler could ask for: hiking, ocean fishing, small-stream fly fishing, bear viewing, whale watching, glacier viewing, caving, mountain biking, kayaking, and more. Judith recommends spending at least four days to experience everything that’s available.
Best-value splurge hotel
The chateau-style Alyeska Resort in Girdwood, an hour outside of Anchorage. Originally called “Glacier City,” Girdwood was founded as a supply camp for gold miners. These days, guests at the Alyeska can enjoy its newly renovated Nordic spa, miles of hiking trails, and spectacular views of monumental hanging glaciers and the Chugach boreal forest. The hotel’s top-floor Black Diamond Club rooms offer VIP perks.
Most iconic places to stay
In Anchorage: Hotel Captain Cook is one of the best properties in the city, with a health club, spa, shops, and four restaurants. It’s very well situated and popular with locals too—while you may be in Alaska for the wildlife, the Captain Cook lobby offers some great people-watching!
In the wilderness: With just five individual cabins and a main building for dining and gathering, Tutka Bay Lodge sits on 40 acres at the head of a rugged nine-mile fjord; activities on offer include daily cooking classes, forest hikes, bird watching, deep-sea fishing, glacier exploration, and bear viewing.
Restaurants the locals love
Moose’s Tooth brewpub in Anchorage. Maybe it’s the convivial atmosphere or the inspired pizza toppings (smoked salmon? apricot sauce?)—or perhaps it’s simply the strong beer on tap, but for whatever reason, it’s a favorite local haunt.
Hangar on the Wharf, a former floatplane hangar on Juneau’s waterfront, serves up seafood, Alaskan draft beer, and breathtaking views (over the cruise ships) to Gastineau Channel.
Island Pub on Douglas Island is the local favorite for gourmet hospitality. The views of Juneau harbor aren’t bad either.
Dish to try
Alaska salmon, halibut, and king crab are a given, but if you want a real delight, try an unbelievably delicious Alaskan oyster—part of Alaska’s sustainable aquaculture endeavors, they are available year-round. Once you taste the bright, pure flavor, you’ll never be satisfied with any other oyster. In Anchorage, order Alaskan oysters at Simon and Seafort’s Saloon & Grill.
Meal worth the splurge
Ask the kitchen team at The Jorgenson House, a luxury B&B in Juneau, to cater a private dinner with hearty, home-cooked Alaskan dishes. (They did the same for the team from Top Chef: Seattle!)
What to See and Do
Don’t miss
If visiting Denali is on your bucket list, Judith recommends an hour of private flightseeing over the mountain, after which you’ll land on an airstrip within the park and head out on foot for a full day of hiking with your own local guide.
Cheap thrill
If you’re in town at the end of August, rent a car and head to the Alaska State Fair in Palmer, an hour’s drive north of Anchorage, for live music, food, contests, and a slice of Alaskan life. There’s also the August Blueberry Festival in Girdwood for local music, a pie-eating contest, and, of course, blueberry picking.
Downtime
Take in all the lovely scenery (including close-up views of Denali) from a GoldStar dome car on the Alaska Railroad Denali Star route between Denali National Park and Anchorage—an eight-hour ride. These luxury two-level cars have great views from up top (and an outdoor viewing platform if you want some fresh air), and a full-service dining room below. Makes for a lovely day of relaxation.
Alaska has two seasons for visiting—summer and winter—and they offer completely different experiences (spring and fall are quite short-lived).
The sweet spot in summer is the second week of June to mid-July: The mountains are still covered in snow, the flowers are emerging, and the animals have either just given birth or are about to, so you might see moose out with their calves, as well as just-born fur seal pups. Plus, the locals are happy that winter is over and that visitors have returned. Temperatures are typically in the mid-60s during the day.
March is best for a winter visit, as the days are growing longer and the cold weather is not as severe; be prepared, though, for highs barely above freezing.
October, November, December, and April: The weather can be extremely cold and drab, and there are few activities for visitors. (Alaskans often vacation during these periods, so even they don’t stick around!)
Avoiding small bush planes; it’s often the only way to get to some of the state’s most special places—and many Alaskans feel safer in the sky than they do on the road. Floatplanes are especially peaceful, with their smooth takeoffs and landings on the water.
Many of the state’s small airports are without standard services—don’t assume you can get a bite to eat or something to read at the airport.
An Alaskan-made piece of artwork. Long winters lead to lots of creativity!