The insider advice on this page is from one of Wendy’s Trusted Travel Experts for small-ship expeditions: Ashton Palmer of ExpeditionTrips.
Infectiously enthusiastic about small-ship cruising, Ashton spent nearly a decade as an expedition leader, guide, naturalist, Zodiac driver, avid bird-watcher, and photographer in the Arctic, Antarctica, the Amazon, and the South Pacific. (He has traveled to Antarctica more than 50 times and spent a collective of three months in the Arctic.) In 1999, Ashton started a company to match travelers with the right small-ship expedition trips everywhere from the Galapagos to Papua New Guinea and the two poles. He’ll be the first to tell you when a two-week trip to the Arctic may not be your cup of tea, and when a specific ship or cabin just isn’t worth the extra expense. And because of his relationships with the top cruise lines and tour operators, Ashton often secures preferred rates or other perks (such as shipboard credits or a bottle of wine).
Best Ships
Best short cruise
The typical Inside Passage itinerary requires eight days, but the National Geographic Sea Bird and the National Geographic Sea Lion offer two 6-day “Wild Alaska Escape” itineraries, exploring some of Southeast Alaska’s most pristine wilderness. Depending on the itinerary, you can visit Haines (the adventure capital of Alaska), Sitka’s Raptor Rehabilitation Center, the Chilkat Tlingit village of Klukwan, tidewater glaciers, and view humpback whales in Tracy Arm or Endicott Arm. Both itineraries feature guided nature walks, kayaking, and Zodiac tours.
Best ships for a splurge
The 100-passenger National Geographic Quest and National Geographic Venture combine state-of-the-art expeditionary hardware with supreme comfort; their itineraries explore shallow coves and narrow waterways in search of humpback whales, waterfalls, and wildlife. Each ship has kayaks, stand-up paddle boards, an outdoor grill, a spa, a spacious sundeck, and an undersea specialist to operate a remotely operated vehicle (ROV). Several cabins have interconnecting doors for families, and some have small balconies.
Best large ship
The Seabourn Quest offers a high level of personalized service and an elegant atmosphere. The ship features spacious, well-appointed suites, many with private verandas. There are also multiple dining venues, a world-class spa, a fitness center, and evening entertainment. The Quest offers 7- and 14-day expeditions through Alaska’s Inside Passage, starting or ending in Vancouver.
Best small ship
With a capacity of only 22 guests (ideal for a large family or group of friends to charter), the Safari Quest explores the most remote coves and anchors in secluded sites at night. This all-inclusive yacht has a Jacuzzi, lounge, reading nook, and fully stocked bar. Optional activities include kayaking, stand-up paddle boarding, guided hikes, and fishing.
Best affordable ship for families
The 74-passenger Wilderness Explorer checks the box for outdoor family fun with kayaking, stand-up paddle boarding, yoga, bushwhacking, shore walks, and the occasional bonfire—plus, they offer discounts for children. The accommodations are modest, but there are panoramic views from the lounge, plus a hot tub for stargazing and a sundeck for optimal wildlife viewing.
Best ships for a solo traveler
Small ships are known for their social atmosphere, making them ideal for solo travelers. To avoid paying a single supplement, book a dedicated single cabin; the Wilderness Adventurer, Wilderness Explorer, and Safari Explorer all have them. These must be reserved well in advance, as solo cabins are limited.
Best-value cabins
The Commodore Suites aboard the 84-passenger Safari Endeavour are an excellent value compared to equivalent accommodations, starting at $8,800 per person for an eight-day itinerary in April. (People are often surprised at how expensive an Alaskan expedition cruise is, but it takes a lot to get these ships up there for a relatively short season.) All four of the 216-square-foot suites are identical, with a step-out French balcony, a full bathroom with Jacuzzi tub, and a separate sitting area; they can also be configured as a triple cabin for families, and they come with a complimentary massage.
Best splurge cabin
The duplex Wintergarden Suite on the Seabourn Quest is like having your own luxurious apartment at sea: a private balcony, dining area for four, master bath with a whirlpool tub, guest bathroom, convertible sofa, and a glass-enclosed solarium with a tub and day bed.
Best cabins for families
Cabins in categories 1, 2, and 4 aboard the National Geographic Quest and National Geographic Venture are interconnecting, keeping your family together while accommodating different bedtimes. National Geographic-Lindblad Expeditions offers a fantastic “Global Explorers” program for kids, featuring activities such as making glacier sundaes and earning a Zodiac driver’s license.
Top Ports and Shore Excursions
Time off the ship
Expedition-style vessels are all-inclusive, so excursions such as hiking, kayaking, and Zodiac cruising come at no extra cost. On more traditional, port-based cruises such as those with Seabourn and Silversea, you can pay for guided shore excursions that range from fly fishing and hiking to helicopter tours and visits to wildlife rescue centers.
Can’t-miss port
Petersburg, on the northern tip of Mitkof Island, is a busy and scenic fishing village lined with all kinds of Alaskan ships, from large fishing trawlers to sailing boats. Many of its streets showcase the town’s distinctive native and Norwegian heritage. Taking a stroll is the best way to experience Petersburg’s wide range of public art, Tlingit Totem Park, and Norwegian heritage sites (including a Sons of Norway hall). Chances are, you’ll also see an abundance of bald eagles and ravens perched on the numerous port pilings.
Many expedition ships that visit Petersburg will take passengers to LeConte Glacier, 25 miles east of town, for guided kayaking and Zodiac rides through a large sculptural iceberg garden. Harbor seals, harbor porpoises, and bald eagles frequent this area for feeding and solitude.
Port most worth the trek
Very few people have the chance to go spelunking at El Capitan Caves, the largest known cave in Alaska, on Prince of Wales Island. The 74-passenger Wilderness Explorer and the 76-passenger Wilderness Discoverer visit this gem on their Western Coves itineraries. Travelers are given hardhats with lights before entering the karst wonderland and, once inside, a history lesson on Southeast Alaska’s ice age.
May, June, July and August offer the best chances of dry weather in Southeast Alaska (the region that nearly all expedition cruises focus on, also known as the Inside Passage). This is also a prime time to spot transient orcas, migrating humpback whales, and hauled-out harbor seals. Winds coming off the snow-covered mountain peaks make the air crisp, and the forests showcase an abundance of wildflowers.
At the end of the cruise season in mid-September, Southeast Alaska’s weather becomes rainy and cold, and wildlife sightings are at a low. The salmon have finished migrating and the bears are getting ready for hibernation. Birders especially should avoid this time, since several migrating species leave the area, including the puffins in Glacier Bay. Not surprisingly, most of the tourist shops and attractions in Sitka and Juneau are closed.
Don’t shop for overpriced and inauthentic items at prominent shops located in the main ports. The shops are often owned by international cruise companies that don’t support the local economy.
Don’t skip the polar plunge unless health reasons prevent you from participating.
Don’t forget to bring a zoom lens for capturing distant wildlife, especially bears.
Don’t rely on hiking boots alone—knee-high muck boots are essential.
Don’t pack bulky clothing for Southeast Alaska’s temperate rainforest—opt for Smartwool or sporty fabric layers instead.
The best itineraries include Glacier Bay National Park, which can only be reached by boat or air, and only with a National Park Service ranger escort. Here you’ll see tidewater glaciers that are constantly crackling and may calve before your eyes, as well as Steller sea lions, puffins, and murrelets on South Marble Island.
Fall is the best time to book, especially for families who need a certain cabin type or for those who want to travel in the peak months of July and August. The most desirable cabins and departures are often sold out by December.
The Wilderness Discoverer,Wilderness Explorer, Wilderness Adventurer and Safari Explorer all offer the unusual opportunity to snorkel in Alaska, with 7mm wetsuits for the 55- to 65-degree seas. You’ll see an abundance of vibrantly colored intertidal marine life, including ochre sea stars, rockfish, sea anemones, giant barnacles, jellyfish, and kelp crabs.
Haines is nestled on the Lynn Canal, the deepest and longest fjord in North America; it sits before a backdrop of majestic snow-capped mountains, which are mirrored on the still waterway most days.