Rajasthan, India: Insider’s Guide

The insider advice about Rajasthan, India on this page is from two of Wendy’s Trusted Travel Experts for India: Bertie and Victoria Dyer of India Beat.

Trusted Travel Expert

Bertie and Victoria Dyer

Bertie Dyer fell in love with India at age 12 and has spent as much time as possible there since. He and his wife, Victoria, lived for ten years in Jaipur, where they were married and had their first child. The company they started together, which arranges private journeys to India, grew out of their desire to introduce visiting friends to the people and places they love in Rajasthan. Today they specialize in unique trips tailored to individual interests—a type of travel experience that is rare in India, where most tours emphasize ticking off as many main sites as possible. Bertie’s areas of expertise include Moghul architecture, wildlife photography, and Indian history. Victoria’s passions include yoga, Indian cooking, and textile design—and her knowledge of boutiques and bazaars has made her Jaipur shop crawl one of their most popular tours. Bertie and Victoria now split their time between their home in India and the U.K. Their Jaipur office is run by a dedicated team of local employees who have been with the company from the beginning.

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Expect trips orchestrated by Bertie and Victoria to start at $750 per day for two travelers, utilizing 4-star hotels, a private car and driver, and a private guide.

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Did you know that there are tigers in Rajasthan’s Ranthambhore National Park? Photo: India Beat

Where to Stay and Eat

Best rural stays
There are many beautiful hotels and palaces dotted throughout the major cities of Rajasthan; less well known are the region’s heritage homes, which often belong to the descendants of Rajasthan’s ruling families. Staying in one offers a more intimate experience and exposure to the beauty of Rajasthan’s countryside. Victoria and Bertie’s favorites include Ramathra Fort, Shahpura Bagh, and Dev Shree; at each of these, the owner families shower their guests with the warm hospitality for which India is so well known.

Best bang-for-your-buck hotel
Khem Villas is a family home situated on a private reserve next to Ranthambhore National Park, renowned for its tigers. There are accommodations for every price range here, from four spacious air-conditioned guest rooms, to seven luxury tents, to eight beautiful cottages. Your hosts are the owners of the property, Goverdhan and Usha, a fascinating couple. Goverdhan grew up inside the park learning about its flora and fauna from his father, one of the world’s leading tiger experts. A doctor, he spends days in the villages giving free health care and visits with guests in the evening. Usha goes out of her way to look after Bertie and Victoria’s travelers, upgrading them whenever possible.

The Veranda Cafe at the Rambagh Palace. Photo: Taj Hotels

Hotel worth the splurge
Rambagh Palace was the official residence of Sawai Man Singh II, the last Maharajah of Jaipur. It is one of the best luxury hotels in Rajasthan. As a guest, you really do feel that you’re staying in a Maharajah’s home. Every corner of the palace tells a story, from the portraits in the Polo Bar (the young prince was a prominent player) to the furnishings in the Maharani Suite, handpicked by the Maharajah as a surprise gift to his wife. In the thirties, the royal couple entertained an international crowd of luminaries, and after turning Rambagh into a hotel in 1957, they continued to manage its operations—in fact, the Maharani lived on the grounds until her death in 2009 and treated the palace as her home. Now leased to the Taj hotel group, the palace still exudes the spirit of a charismatic couple for whom hospitality, on a grand scale, was a way of life.

Rooms with a view
Everything about the boutique RAAS Jodhpur hotel is wonderful. Relaxing on your terrace while gazing up at the Mehrangarh Fort? Nothing short of spectacular.

The rooms at heritage hotel Rawla Narlai, a 17th-century manor set within the starkly beautiful landscape of the Aravalli hills, offer views over a granite monolith and atmospheric rural surroundings. Halfway between Jodhpur and Udaipur and set amidst manicured lawns and courtyard gardens, Rawla Narlai is an ideal retreat from which to explore village life in Rajasthan.

Best hotel for nature lovers
RAAS Chhatrasagar is a beautiful tented camp overlooking a lake in the village of Nimak. The water level is currently high, so the landscape is breathtakingly lush. This camp is a must for bird watchers, or anyone wanting to relax in complete peace by the pool for a day.

Restaurants the locals love
The highly theatrical Polo Palladio Jaipur, within the Rajasthan Polo Club, reflects Jaipur’s glamour and elegance with its exuberant yellow, green, and maroon décor. It’s normally only open to club members, but Victoria and Bertie can arrange for you in to dine here in style.

The Johri, in the heart of Johri bazaar, is a beautiful and tranquil spot popular for its organic vegetarian Indian dishes.

The restaurant at the Raas Devi Garh Palace hotel—which is just outside Udaipur—has spectacular panoramic views over the countryside and the Aravalli hills. Many of the ingredients used in the flavorful curries are grown in the palace’s garden.

Coffee lovers won’t want to miss Jaipur’s Half Light Coffee Roasters. Its modern, airy vibe and international café menu hit the right note. Looking for a true chai experience instead? Victoria and Bertie will introduce you to traditional street vendors whose families have been making beautifully spiced masala chai for generations.

Dishes to try
The classic Rajput warrior dish is lal maas: mutton curry cooked over an open fire and bursting with spices and intense flavors. Try it at Niros, one of the oldest restaurants in Jaipur.

Victoria’s favorite is a masala dosa, a Southern India staple: a crispy pancake filled with spiced potato curry, served with chutney and sambar. Perfect for a Sunday morning brunch or a quick lunch.

Meals worth the splurge
A candlelit dinner at the private stepwell on the grounds of Rawla Narlai is nothing short of magical. The stepwell, dating from the 16th century, is lit with hundreds of flickering candles. Enjoy a multi-course royal feast while lost songs of the desert wash over you for a multi-sensory experience that is entirely Rajasthani.

Wind your way by torch and candlelight to the rooftop of the City Palace in Udaipur, where a sumptuous feast awaits. A member of the palace staff will meet your party at the gates and escort you past the palace guards, resplendent in their uniforms, to a private rooftop terrace. There you’ll be attended by turbaned waiters and entertained with traditional music and dancing (the fire dance is amazing). The view is of the sparkling lake on one side and the city lights on the other.

Victoria and Bertie can get you into the members-only Bar Palladio. Photo: India Beat

Bar buzz
You’ll find a lively and sophisticated nightlife in Jaipur. Swinton House is where the local hip crowd hangs out. The celebrated electric-blue interiors at Bar Palladio, in the Narain Niwas Palace hotel, are reason enough to visit; go for an early-evening drink and bites from their delicious bar menu.

What to See and Do

Art without an entry fee
Rajasthan is a land of extraordinary architecture, where every corner reveals a masterpiece of design and history. From the opulent palaces of Jaipur and Udaipur to the awe-inspiring forts of Jaisalmer, Mehrangarh, and Chittorgarh, the state is a living gallery of grandeur. The fusion of Rajput, Mughal, and European influences is evident in the intricate carvings, elegant jharokhas, and vast courtyards. The havelis of Jaisalmer are adorned with breathtaking façades and exquisite frescoes, while the Jain temples of Ranakpur and Dilwara stand as marvels of stone artistry. Rajasthan architecture isn’t just visually stunning—it’s a deep dive into a fascinating past and a testament to timeless craftsmanship.

Don’t miss
One of the largest and deepest stepwells in India, the Chand Baori (located between Agra and Jaipur) was constructed in the 8th century. With 3,500 steps cascading down 13 stories, this stop on the Rajasthan circuit is nothing short of wondrous.

Enter a private kitchen to learn the secrets of Rajasthani cuisine while cooking at home with the a member of Victoria and Bertie’s India-based team. Have fun whipping up and enjoying traditional curries and rotis packed with flavor.

After you’ve seen the Amber Palace, let Bertie and Victoria show you nearby villages. Photo: Shutterstock

Hidden gems
After a visit to the Amber Fort, just north of Jaipur, stroll through the adjacent village to the Anokhi Museum of Hand Printing, dedicated to resurrecting this traditional art. The hand-printed fabrics in its collection are stamped with carved wooden blocks in beautiful patterns—the artisans who work here will show you the entire process from start to finish; if you want, you can even print a T-shirt with your own design. The story told here is a fascinating one: Block printing was nearly extinct in the 1960s when the Anokhi family came from England and took an interest it; the Anokhi factory now employs some 3,000 people and thousands more work in what has become a thriving local industry. The museum is housed in a restored haveli, or mansion, that is itself worth a visit. On your village walk you’ll see fruit sellers with carts, shops supplying basic needs, cows ambling along the narrow roads—in short, life in a small community that moves at an easy pace.

For an even more hands-on introduction to block printing, Bertie and Victoria arrange private workshops just outside Jaipur in Bagru. These workshops provide a fascinating opportunity to spend time with a local printing community and create your own block-printed textile art under the guidance of a master-printer.

Bragging rights
Folk music and performance in Rajasthan form an integral part of the state’s vibrant cultural heritage. Deeply rooted in tradition, these art forms are not just sources of entertainment but also storytelling media that reflect the history, beliefs, and emotions of the local communities. Victoria and Bertie often arrange Rajasthani folk performances with locally renowned musicians, dancers, magicians, and folk actors.

Go shopping with an insider in Rajasthan. Photo: Shutterstock

Rajasthan’s capital city of Jaipur is a shopping mecca, with wonderful textiles, jewelry, and amazing bazaars—but it’s also a befuddling maze. Let Bertie and Victoria lead you to the best shops and introduce you to fascinating people. You can discuss gemstones with Samir or Siddharth Kasliwal, whose family owns the Gem Palace; jewelry with Lala and Vishal at Tholia’s Kuber; and textiles with any number of experts, including Theirry Journo of Idli, Muba and Muza of Andraab, and Swati, owner of Swati Ubroi.

Join one of the most fun Holi celebrations in Jaipur at the Diggi Palace! The original party was thrown in 2009 by Bertie and Victoria as part of their wedding celebrations. It was such a hit that it’s been hosted by the Diggi Palace every year since. Expect a joyful morning of traditional dance and music, the all-important powder throwing, Super Soakers, and delicious Indian cooking.

Cheap thrill
For less than a dollar you can have a delicious vegetarian lunch with the other visiting pilgrims at the Jain temple in Ranakpur, two hours from Udaipur on the road to Jodhpur. The temple, a white marble jewel, is in a hidden valley where, once upon a time, it would have been protected from invaders. The meal is served in a hall furnished with rows of benches, the curry cooked in a big pot over a wood fire in the center of the kitchen floor. This shared experience is something you would miss if, like most tourists, you were to stop at a hotel for lunch after visiting the temple.

Downtime
For complete relaxation, spend a day by the pool at Amanbagh, an oasis of palm and eucalyptus trees and Mughal-inspired architecture once used by the maharajah of Alwar on tiger-hunting expeditions (the word aman means “peace” and bagh means “garden”). For something more active, saddle up one of the Marwari horses at Mihir Garh and ride through the Thar desert, pausing to visit the Bishnoi villages.

Best for thrill seekers
The most amazing view of the Blue City is from the immense Mehrangarh Fort, a superb example of Rajput architecture that occupies a cliff above Jodhpur. Flying Fox runs six zip lines from the top of the fort to the bottom—you’ll fly down the mountain like Spider-Man.

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