Oman, from Beach to Desert: Insider’s Guide

The insider advice on this page is from two of Wendy’s Trusted Travel Experts for Oman: Jonny Bealby and Dan Waters of Wild Frontiers.

Trusted Travel Expert

Jonny Bealby and Dan Waters

Jonny has spent decades adventuring in the Middle East and Central Asia—he’s even written books about his epic journeys through war-torn Afghanistan and by horse along the Silk Road. His right hand, Dan, has traveled extensively in Jordan, Oman, Iran, Israel, and Palestine. Now based in the U.K., they craft itineraries that get you off the beaten path and under the skin of the world’s exotic frontiers, while of course ensuring your safety throughout. They are eager to immerse you in the local culture via overnights in village homes or desert camps, but are also well-acquainted with the most magnificent five-star properties. Whatever your preferred nightly accommodations, Jonny and Dan will ensure you spend your days authentically: In Oman, they’ll get you to the tallest dunes in the Empty Quarter at sunset. In Jordan, they’ll introduce you to semi-nomadic families of shepherds and their goats. In Iran, they’ll get you into the closed-to-the-public Tehran Museum of Contemporary Art so you can see one of the world’s most impressive collections of modern art—we’re talking Pollocks, Manets, Gauguins—in the most surprising of places.

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Expect trips orchestrated by Jonny and Dan to have a 5-night minimum and start at $900 per day for two travelers.

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The dunes of the Empty Quarter in Oman, the largest continuous sand desert in the world. Photo: Wild Frontiers

Things to Do and See

Most underrated place
Oman’s open spaces. A night or two spent among the dunes of Oman’s vast Empty Quarter will blow your mind. Out here you can visit a camel farm in the morning, enjoy a picnic lunch at an oasis for a respite from the midday heat, and watch the sunset from the top of the endless desert dunes. Depending on your budget, Jonny and Dan can put you up in either basic dome tents or a luxurious Bedouin-style encampment with raised beds and bathroom facilities. Either way, you’ll enjoy the vista of a sand sea extending to the horizon in every direction. Fancy watching the sun rise over the Arabian Sea on an empty, windswept beach on Masirah Island? Or walking little-used mountain trails amidst imposing mountains and dramatic canyons in Jebel Akhdar? Jonny and Dan can make it happen. One thing is certain: you will find Oman’s dramatic solitude humbling.

Most overrated place
The Ras Al Jinz Turtle Reserve does good work, and they go to great lengths not to disturb the turtles during their critical nesting time. However, the sanctuary gets very busy—and peak nesting season does not coincide with peak tourist season—so you can end up with a lot of people looking at not very many turtles.

Hidden gems
The small villages of the Al Hajar Mountain range. While the steady march toward modernity continues unabated in Oman’s big cities, a slower-paced, more traditional Oman still exists in its villages, such as Misfat al Abryeen. This small, crumbling, old town is wonderfully atmospheric, set among the hills and inaccessible to vehicles. The village is colored with flowers, and crops are made possible by a falaj—an ancient irrigation system that not only brings life to the village but also serves as its hypnotic soundtrack.

How to spend a lazy Friday
To escape the world for a day, go to Wadi Bani Khalid or any one of Oman’s many stunning swimming wadis. At Wadi Bani Khalid you’ll find an absolutely picture-perfect oasis. You walk through a canyon, past a small area of crops and the ubiquitous falaj water systems, and then suddenly you are greeted by the most magnificent set of palm-fringed, crystal-clear swimming holes. If you’re feeling adventurous, you can swim up the river and do a bit of easy canyoning, going up small waterfalls and scrambling over rocks to reach various pools. While Wadi Bani Khalid is one of Oman’s most accessible swimming wadis, if you are feeling a bit more adventurous and seeking solitude, head for Wadi Al Arbaeen or Wadi Hawer.

Prime picnic spot
The edge of Wadi Ghul, Oman’s Grand Canyon. Enjoy epic views over some very dramatic scenery.

Where to Stay and What to Eat

How’s this for a hotel that lives up to its name? Photo: The View

Best-bang-for-your-buck hotels
The View, in the Hajar Mountains. It’s unpretentious and good value but still quite stylish—and it has one of the most perfectly located infinity pools. The Premier rooms, which aren’t much more expensive than the Standard option, have the best locations at the extreme ends of the resort, with unobstructed views over the valley. (They’re also beyond the pool, so you don’t have foot traffic outside your window.)

A good option for those seeking something traditional is Hanging Terraces in Jebel Akhdar, a comfortable and stunning hotel lovingly created from three restored historic houses. The hotel is located in the village of Al Aqer, which marks the start of one of Oman’s most iconic walks—the “three villages walk.”

Best-value splurge hotels
The Six Senses Zighy Bay has a stunning location on a pristine bay on the Musandam Peninsula, resplendent with soft white sand and crystal-clear blue waters, with surrounding hills providing a magical backdrop. There are numerous pools and a wonderful spa. The huge beach villas are luxe but rustic; each has a private plunge pool and numerous lounging areas both indoors and out. The beachfront pool villas have palm-leaf gates that allow direct access onto the beach and uninterrupted views of the Gulf of Oman. Jonny and Dan can even arrange for you to arrive via paraglider (with your luggage coming separately and a pilot guiding you down, of course). One thing to note: The hotel is somewhat removed from the main areas for touring in Oman.

Paragliding into Six Senses Zighy Bay, Oman. Photo: Six Senses

If you are on a touring itinerary and have limited time, great options in northern Oman are the very stylish Chedi Muscat and the Jumeirah Muscat Bay, with its stunning private beach. Or opt for a mountain hideaway like the Alila Jebel Akhdar or the Anantara Al Jabal Al Akhdar, both world-class properties with stunning views of the surrounding “Green Mountains.”

Meal worth the splurge
The Beach Restaurant at the Chedi: world-class food and wine, including stunningly fresh seafood, served with a backdrop of the beach and the Gulf of Oman lit up by fire pits.

Dish to try
Shuwaa, the national dish of Oman, is always served at any decent celebration. It is utterly delicious and reflects Oman’s historical importance along the Far Eastern spice routes. Making a shuwaa is a time-consuming event: First, you liberally spice a joint of lamb with cloves, coriander, cardamom, cumin, pepper, or other spices. The joint is then wrapped in banana leaves and slow-cooked underground over hot coals for at least 24 hours. When it comes out, it is some of the most flavorful, melt-in-your-mouth meat you’ll ever eat. Shuwaa is normally served with rice, shared among many, and eaten with your hands Omani-style. You’ll find shuwaa everywhere from fancy restaurants to small local places; Jonny and Dan suggest asking your guide to take you to their favorite spot to try it.

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