The Cinque Terre and the Italian Riviera: Insider’s Guide

The insider advice on this page is from Wendy’s Trusted Travel Experts for Cinque Terre, Italy: Anna Merulla and Emanuela Raggio of BeautifuLiguria.

Trusted Travel Expert

Anna Merulla and Emanuela Raggio

Italy’s northwestern region of Liguria is best known for the picturesque villages of the Cinque Terre, star-studded Portofino, and the port city of Genoa. What many travelers don’t know about—but should—are Liguria’s colorful hilltop towns, its hiking trails with breathtaking coastal views, and its family-run agriturismos. That’s where Anna and Emanuela, who are based in Genoa, come in. They make sure that their travelers visit the Cinque Terre in the opposite direction than the cruise-ship day-trippers do, to avoid the crowds. In the hills above Portofino, they can introduce you to artisanal producers of wine, olive oil, honey, and beer. And to help you work off all those calories, they’re ready with plans for biking, kayaking, snorkeling, and other active pursuits. Given the winding roads and lack of parking in Liguria, they typically utilize private drivers and local trains. Anna and Emanuela can assist with arrangements in select other parts of northern Italy—Lombardy, Piedmont, Emilia-Romagna, Tuscany, Milan, the Veneto, the Lakes Region—but not the Dolomites.

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Expect trips orchestrated by Anna and Emanuela to start at $1,200 per day for two travelers.

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Things to Do and See

Riomaggiore is one of five seaside towns that constitute the Cinque Terre. Photo: BeautifuLiguria

Don’t miss
Early-morning and late-afternoon walks. These are the best times to explore the five small seaside colorful villages that make up the Cinque Terre (which is a UNESCO World Heritage site)—Monterosso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggore—and to hike in the national park between the coastline and the terraced vineyards up in the hills. With all the steep climbs and descents, hiking here is not always easy, but the effort is worth it, because from above you have the most striking views away from the crowds!

Seeing the region by boat, which gives you both a new perspective and a feeling of solitude. Spend half a day motoring along this beautiful coastline with its rugged cliffs and turquoise water, stopping in one or two villages to go for a stroll.

Camogli, a picturesque village near Portofino, where you can watch fishermen repair their nets in the tiny but lively fishing harbor and admire the colorful houses lining the pebbled beach.

The Western Riviera, between Genoa and the French border, offers beautiful beaches (particularly the one in Varigotti), hillsides covered with olive trees (hence, delicious olive oils), and small villages such as Noli (think San Gimignano by the sea) and Finalborgo, an ancient walled village.

Don’t bother
Renting a car. Driving is forbidden inside the villages, and most of them can’t even be reached by car (locals mostly use trains and ferries). The smartest way to get around is by train; distances between the villages are very short. You can buy a Cinque Terre Card, which allows unlimited train travel for one or two days and access to the trekking paths.

Most overrated places
Monterosso is the largest of the five villages and where most of the hotels are concentrated, so it is also the most crowded at night. If you do end up spending the night in town, get dinner at Da Miky, the best choice for traditional Ligurian food.

The Via Dell’Amore, the famous walkway that connects the villages of Riomaggiore and Manarola, reopened in summer 2024. While it is a truly magnificent path, it requires a ticket and can only be accessed during a specific, predetermined time slot. A maximum of 400 people per hour are allowed through, split into four groups each with a tour guide. Needless to say, the experience can feel overly touristy.

San Fruttuoso’s beach can only be reached on foot or by boat. Photo: BeautifuLiguria

Most underrated places
Among the Cinque Terre, Corniglia is certainly the quaintest and most secluded of all. But there’s so much more to the region of Liguria than just Cinque Terre, and many lesser-known coastal villages have maintained their authenticity. Have you ever heard of Camogli village, or San Fruttuoso’s tiny bay? What about the fishing village of Boccadasse, or Genoa’s medieval town? Right next to Cinque Terre there is also a bay that was loved by writers of the Romantic era—Lord Byron, Percy Bysshe Shelley, D.H. Lawrence—and is known as the Gulf of Poets. On this bay, the village of Tellaro is particularly beautiful. Farther west along the Italian Riviera, you have medieval villages such as Noli or Varigotti. With all these riches, it would be a shame to limit your time in Liguria to just the Cinque Terre.

Make time to stroll the streets of Genoa. Photo: BeautifuLiguria

Genoa boasts the largest medieval historic center in Europe after Venice. With its narrow alleys, aristocratic Renaissance palaces with painted facades, historic shops passed down through generations, and a food market, Genoa impresses with its authentic old-world feel. Plus, it’s a paradise for street-food lovers.

Hidden gems
Cinque Terre’s vineyards. These small plots are scattered around the hills, demarcated by dry-stone walls that transform them into terraces and require continuous maintenance. Being a winemaker here takes huge physical effort to produce just a few high-quality bottles of wine. These terraces date back to the first settlements of the area in 800 AD, when monks began to cultivate the land. The villages by the sea came later, as shelters for boats (which were the only way to move around and trade).

Boccadasse. This small neighborhood in Genoa, with its colorful houses clustered around a pebbled beach, is more akin to a fishing village than an urban district. This is the spot where locals gather for an aperitivo, a cone of fritto misto, or a gelato on the beach.

The Cinque Terre’s vineyards actually predate its seaside villages. Photo: BeautifuLiguria

Bragging rights
Picture yourself reaching a terraced vineyard perched high above the sea. Your gaze sweeps across a breathtaking 360-degree view. Below you lie vineyards, picturesque villages clinging to steep coastal hills, and the expansive sea. Here, you can discover the art of heroic viticulture, where everything is still done by hand, and unwind while savoring local wines. Enjoy anchovies, bruschetta, and taggiasca olives before your ultra-local lunch of trofie or testaroli al pesto.

Spend an afternoon in a private aristocratic palace in the heart of Genoa’s historic center, welcomed by its owner, who will guide you on an exclusive tour of her home.

How to spend a lazy Sunday
In Genoa, stroll Via Garibaldi, a UNESCO World Heritage site, and stop into the Musei di Strada Nuova, which includes three palazzos that hold everything from Rubens paintings to Paganini violins to 15th-century table décor.

If it’s a lazy Friday, head to the weekly market in Chiavari, an ancient town not far from Portofino. Its arcaded alleys are lively and filled with locals—nary a tourist in sight.

Where to Stay and What to Eat

Best bang-for-your-buck hotels
L’Uliveto nel Parco. Though this family-run agroturismo is just a ten-minute walk from Monterosso, it has the feel of a country estate with olive groves, lemon trees, and grapevines. It’s a place to get away from the crowds but still enjoy water views. While its stone walls keep the interiors cool, note that L’Uliveto does not have air conditioning.

In Levanto, a five- to ten-minute train ride from Monterosso, the Palazzo Vannoni is a 16th-century palace renovated as a small hotel and run by a charming host. Most of the 11 rooms have original ceiling frescoes; all have air-conditioning.

In Genoa the Palazzo Grillo, a design hotel within a Renaissance palace dating from the 1500s, offers a taste of aristocratic living at affordable prices.

Best-value splurge hotels
La Torretta, in Manorola, is one of the best boutique hotels in the area, with a highly curated décor and accommodations spread across colorful houses emblematic of the Cinque Terre. Most rooms have balconies, which offer views of vineyards and the sea. La Torretta is one of the few luxury properties within the Cinque Terre region itself. The best part? Having the village of Manorola all to yourself each evening after the day trippers disperse.

The refined and intimate Hotel Helvetia in Sestri Levante, a picturesque village midway between the Cinque Terre and Portofino, offers—among other amenities—a gorgeous infinity pool overlooking the Bay of Silence.

Restaurants the locals love
An ancient Roman tower in Vernazza today houses Belforte, which has been open for more than 50 years; book well in advance for a table on the terrace with a breathtaking view of the water. Order the mussels, farmed in the Gulf of La Spezia, stuffed with breadcrumbs and aromatic herbs.

Also in Vernazza for more than half a century, Trattoria Gianni Franzi is famous among locals for its traditional Ligurian recipes such as pasta with Genovese pesto or walnut sauce. Their fish ravioli is also wonderful. Book an outdoor table on Piazza Marconi, a great spot for people-watching.

Il Genovese in Genoa is a must for pesto! The owner is known as the “King of Pesto” and is the creator of the worldwide pesto championship, held in Genoa every two years.

Da U Batti, located in a sea-view terraced garden just above the coastal town of Santa Margherita Ligure, is family owned and the place to savor langoustines al Batti.

Bar buzz
Dai Muagetti: This small bar hanging on the mountain above the village of Camogli is a gem. There is no better place in the area to enjoy sunset drinks.

Langosteria Paraggi: If a chic spot on the sand is more your vibe, this beach club on the bay of Paraggi, between Portofino and Santa Margherita Ligure, has your name written all over it.

Cheese focaccia is a signature snack of the Italian Riviera. Photo: BeautifuLiguria

Dishes to try
Focaccia di Rocco, a.k.a. focaccia al formaggio: This thin, crispy flatbread filled with melted stracchino or crescenza cheese is a savory delight with a soft, gooey center and a golden, crunchy crust. You’ll find the finest in the villages of Rocco and Camogli, where it originated. Want to learn how to make it? Emanuela and Anna can plan a cooking lesson, complete with a sea view.

Anchovies of Monterosso: The silver-bright acciughe of the Cinque Terre are delicious. Even if you are not normally a fan of this type of fish, you should try them here. Locals love to enjoy them raw with a trickle of olive oil and lemon; raw with oregano, parsley, and garlic; stuffed; fried; or cooked with potatoes. They’re on the menu in many of the small restaurants of Vernazza, Manarola, and Monterosso.

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